A distinctive white grape variety from north-west Spain

Albarino wines from Spain and New Zealand

Albariño is a fresh and fragrant grape variety, whose origins are deemed to be in Galicia in north-west Spain. In recent years, it has gained hugely in popularity as it makes an interesting alternative to the more usual grape varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc.

One of the most distinctive Spanish white grape varieties, up until the 1980s, it was blended together with other local grape varieties to produce a white wine blend. Since then, its full potential has been realised and it is made as a single varietal with character and individuality.

The variety is uniquely and perfectly adapted to the damp, cool climate of north-west Spain, having a thick skin and forming clusters of small berries which ripen to produce wines high in alcohol and acidity. Although often drunk young to appreciate the freshness and zesty aromatics, they also have the ability to age well and some producers now ferment the wines in oak. The grape variety is gaining traction and it is producing fabulous wines in California, South Africa, New Zealand and even England!

It is also grown widely in Portugal where the name changes to Alvarinho, often blended with other varieties. The vines are trained high, particularly in Galicia, in order to keep the grapes free from rot in the wet climate, allowing the air to circulate. This week sees International Albariño Day/Week, which originates from the Festa do Albariño, a celebration held in Cambados, Galicia during the week leading to the first Sunday of August. It is the oldest wine feast of Galicia and the second oldest in Spain.

So if you would like to pay homage to this up-and-coming grape variety, track down one or more of the following wines, all of which are tip top examples of the wine style. La Val Albariño 2023 comes from the prime Spanish area for this wine, Rias Baixas in Galicia. 100% Albariño, the grapes are sourced from 4 specific vineyard sites to produce a wine of great typicity and intensity. A delicate aroma with touches of herbs and peach leads to a refreshing palate with ripe apricots, white peach and a mineral touch, together with lemon zest. £16.99 from Waitrose.

From the same company, with even greater intensity and complexity is La Val Gran Anada 2019 an aged Albariño that shows an even greater range of flavours and aromatics. Partially aged in French oak barrels, the wine exhibits exotic flavours of tropical fruit, ripe apricot and orange peel. A serious wine with fullness and richness on the palate, a clear demonstration of the capability of this grape variety. £29.99 from Waitrose Cellar.

With even greater tropical fruit notes, yet still showing typical character of the grape variety, is a wine from the other side of the world – Esk Valley Albariño 2022 from New Zealand. The variety grows well in the New Zealand climate and is gaining in popularity there too. Made in Hawkes Bay, the palate has flavours of ripe peach and lime zest, together with a range of tropical fruit flavours. The balanced acidity produces a refreshing, succulent wine, perfect as an aperitif or with Asian cuisine. Available from a range of independent merchants between £14.95 and £16.95 per bottle, which can be found online.