Fortified wines for the Christmas spirit

The festive celebration period is a time when fortified wines really seem to come into their own. Whether it’s because of the food matching possibilities or because of the colder weather, fortified wines somehow have a comforting indulgent character at this time of year and can also be amazingly versatile.

One of the great regions for fortified wines is that of sherry – still sadly under-rated by many in recent years.

In terms of the inherent quality of most sherry available on the market, the wines are ridiculously under-priced and thus represent excellent value for money.

In past centuries, sherry was one of the most popular wines in England, alongside port, these wines being consumed throughout the year, not just at Christmastime.

All true sherry comes from a region in the far south of Spain and comes in various different styles, from bone dry, such as fino and manzanilla, to syrupy sweet such as Pedro Ximenez.

One of the long-established producers of sherry is Bodegas Williams and Humbert in Jerez de la Frontera. Producing a range of different wines, one of the best is Don Zoilo Dry Amontillado en rama, aged for 15 years in large, old oak casks.

A beautiful golden amber colour, it is fortified to 19 per cent alcohol and is bottled unfiltered (en rama) in its most natural state.

A truly unique wine from 100 per cent palomino grapes, the delicate and elegant flavour has hints of orange peel and pecan nuts, with complex aromas and flavours and a slightly salty finish.

Dry and deliciously satisfying it is a great aperitif and will accompany many dishes, including cured ham, chorizo, salami and hard cheese such as Comté or aged gouda. £17 from The Wine Society. Fabulous value for such high quality.

At the other end of the sherry spectrum is Gonzalez Byass Nectar, made from the Pedro Ximenez grape variety, often abbreviated to PX. Opaque mahogany in colour, it is very sweet, rich and velvety smooth.

Another complex wine, with flavours of liquidised Christmas cake, figs, caramel, walnuts and coffee.

Perfect with mince pies, it will also accompany blue cheeses such as Stilton or the salty Roquefort, forming an interesting contrast of flavour. £18 from Ocado or on Amazon.

As if this versatility is not enough, get the party going with a very seasonal cocktail – Nectar P Xpresso Martini!

Mix 40ml Nectar Pedro Ximenez, 20 ml each of vodka and Kahlua, with 30ml espresso coffee. Shake together with ice cubes and strain into a martini glass. Heaven!

Interestingly different French fortified wines are the category known as ‘Vin Doux Naturel’. Containing a high level of natural sugar, the wines are fortified to around 18 per cent to 20 per cent with neutral grape spirit in a similar way to port.

Le Temps d’un Oubli Domaine de Rancy is a Rivesaltes Ambré, deep amber coloured, medium sweet, with great complexity of flavour. Hints of sultanas and dates with good balancing acidity and elegant richness.

Perfect accompaniment to chocolate and pear tart, and, of course, mince pies! The Wine Society £18 for 50cl bottle.