I ate in one of Sussex's most exclusive restaurants and it gave fine-dining a whole new meaning
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But like a McDonald’s, although it is appealing when you first arrive, you somehow feel left unsatisfied and are left wanting more.
However when I was lucky enough to try out Ben Wilkinson’s Tasting Menu at The Pass in South Lodge, this was far from the case.
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Hide AdGoing to The Pass – or any Michelin starred restaurant – is something that has always seemed out of reach.
It looks amazing but feels so exclusive, it would take those six numbers to come up for me to treat my wife Amanda and I.
But this week I was lucky enough to be invited to try out Ben’s stunning menu at the exclusive venue.
Ben is a renowned British chef who has made a significant impact on the culinary world with his innovative techniques and exceptional dishes.
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Hide AdHis first foray in the kitchen was two decades ago when he began working at a golf course restaurant in Derbyshire.
He won his first Michelin Star in 2019 at The Cottage in the Wood in Cumbria before reopening The Pass in August 2022.
Within just seven months The Pass, which he co-manages with his partner Monika Zurawska, was awarded a Michelin star and 4 AA Rosettes.
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Hide AdHaving tasted the food, Ben clearly has a passion for using the highest quality, seasonal ingredients, and he creates dishes that are not only visually stunning but also bursting with flavours.
The prime example of that in the menu we had was the Day Boat Turbot which included prawn mousse, courgette, N25 Oscietra caviar, sea herbs, saffron and roasted fish sauce.
It not only tasted exquisite, it looked stunning with the stark orange off-setting the bright white and silvery shine of the turbot.
That was preceded by some ‘snacks’ – a term which definitely undersold what came out – and these included a wonderful braised pork cheek with mustard mayonnaise. So tasty.
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Hide AdThe Celeriac with beef fillet, beef cheek and truffle then followed before the turbot came out.
Not being big drinkers, we were offered the ‘Soft Pairing’ to go with the menu by Sommelier Léonard Lievin and every drink was described and explained with such passion and panache.
The Marine Martini (Everleaf Marine, Tonic Water and Citric Crystal) was a highlight that went with the turbot.
The Berry Shrub (Cranberry, Blackcurrant, Kale, Verjus, Cola, Cloves) then accompanied the Wild Fallow Deer (sorry Bambi!).
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Hide AdThis was a beautiful piece venison – the knife cut through it like butter – which was joined by beetroot, red wine, bitter salad and spiced sausage on an incredibly presented dish.
As I said at the beginning, sometimes it can be style over substance when it comes to fine-dining – at The Pass, Ben Wilkinson has made sure it has style, substance and taste in abundance.
The flavours, textures and colours all combined to make an incredible dining experience.
Oh, and we haven’t got to the dessert yet – Amanda’s favourite course.
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Hide AdWe started with a blackberry sorbet with lemon thyme, yoghurt and Chartreuse (a French herbal liqueur) before the pièce de résistance – the Chocolate Delice with hazelnut, vanilla and finished off with Pedro Ximénez sherry.
Having Ben, his chefs and Sommelier Léonard bring the food and explain the pairings was an absolute treat and showcased the passion there is for food and showcased the talent at The Pass.
And being able to watch them prepare the food in such a calm manner was somehow reassuring – and defied the portrayal of kitchens you see on film and tv.
We don’t get to experience this kind of food very often, but it has given us a taste (pun intended) of what fine-dining really is.
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Hide AdBen Wilkinson is clearly a rare talent – his culinary style is a perfect blend of classic techniques and modern creativity, resulting in a unique and unforgettable dining experience.
Those Michelin stars are well-deserved.
If you are lucky enough to be able to try out his menu at The Pass – you are in for a real treat.
n Visit the Sussex World website at www.sussexworld.co.uk to see more photos of the dishes and a video of Mark and Amanda’s experience at The Pass.
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