The perfect wines for asparagus season: Richard Esling April 21

Spring has truly sprung over the past few weeks, with wall to wall glorious sunshine for weeks, together with a little warmth and fabulous blue skies. And boy, do we need it at the moment! At least the sunny weather can lift the spirits and keep optimism at the top of our daily list of thoughts. I have to admit to not watching the news so much, particularly at night, and concentrating on the beautiful sights and sounds of spring – violets and celandines flowering on grassy banks, a great-spotted woodpecker drumming in the woods as I take my daily walk.
Wines for asparagus SUS-200420-134053001Wines for asparagus SUS-200420-134053001
Wines for asparagus SUS-200420-134053001

And, of course, planning the weekly menu of delicious seasonal fare, matched naturally with a little glass or two of carefully chosen wine, is ‘de rigeur’ in the current circumstances. English strawberries are now on sale and English asparagus is starting to be available. There is nothing quite like the flavour of the English varieties, to my mind the best in the world. Even my French wife admits that English is better than French – for asparagus and strawberries at any rate! Everything else involves more lengthy discussion!

I am lucky enough to have my own asparagus bed on my allotment and eating asparagus cooked minutes after harvesting is an absolute joy. But it does need a carefully matched wine to enhance the enjoyment even further. Happily, The Wine Society, of which regular readers will note I am an unofficial ambassador due to their excellent wine selection, is back up and running, albeit on a restricted basis. To keep staff safe, the society is only supplying full cases of wine, either six or 12 bottles depending on the wine.

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The following three wines are all from The Wine Society and are perfect matches with English asparagus, albeit from different grape varieties. First, is Domaine Pellé 2018 from the lesser known Menetou-Salon region of the Loire Valley. Pure Sauvignon Blanc from Kimmeridgian soils similar to those in the nearby Chablis region, it is aromatic and flavoursome with great minerality and backbone. Sauvignon Blanc from the Loire has a grassy, herbaceous character, without the fruit opulence often found with New Zealand sauvignons and is thus a better match with the delicacy of asparagus. £167 for a case of 12.

My second asparagus wine is also from the Loire Valley, but has 15 per cent chardonnay blended with the sauvignon blanc. Domaine du Salvard 2019 is from the Cheverny appellation, surrounded by world renowned chateaux such as Chambord, Chenonceaux and Cheverny itself. Made by Emmanuel Delaille, the wine has a little extra body and complexity added by the chardonnay and is thus perfect with asparagus and goats cheese quiche, an asparagus and feta salad, or asparagus with serrano ham and shaved Parmesan. £114 for a case of 12. My final wine of the three comes from the sadly overlooked yet magnificent wine region of the Alsace in eastern France. There is nothing quite like a plate of freshly steamed English asparagus with a cool glass of Dry Muscat from the Alsace. Either the Trimbach Muscat Reserve 2017 or Joseph Cattin Muscat Reserve 2018 are perfect, from two top producers of the region. The pure ‘grapey’ flavours and aromas of the Muscat variety, together with a dry yet fruity palate are exquisite and match asparagus to perfection. £65.50 for a case of six.

Naturally, all these wines are fabulous with plenty of other spring and summer dishes, so investment in 12 bottles at a time sets you up well for the coming season.