Richard Esling. On the Grapevine: a toast to Riesling’s 590th birthday

An aromatic white grape of considerable class, it is capable of making top quality wines in many different styles.

A grape variety that fully expresses the terroir where it is grown, the characteristics can change in terms of aromas and flavours, although always with high acidity, citrus notes and distinctive aromas.

Originating in the Rheingau in Germany, a country with still the greatest number of vineyards of Riesling, it is now grown around the world.

Riesling is resistant to cold temperatures and thrives in cooler climates.

Bud burst is late, thus avoiding the worst frosts and it is also relatively disease resistant.

The siting of the vineyards is, however, of great importance in order to achieve full ripeness of the grapes.

In days gone by, a lot of poor-quality wine was produced with residual sugar to disguise the shortcomings.

Nowadays, the emphasis is on quality rather than quantity and the majority of wines are dry.

Here are three great wines with which to toast the 590th birthday of this noble grape variety.

Some of the best dry German Rieslings come from the Mosel Valley, the vineyards planted on the steep slopes, angled to catch the maximum sunshine on slate soils.

Grey Slate Riesling 2023 Dr Loosen Mosel, is an elegant, light, crisp, dry and vibrant white wine at 10.5% alcohol.

Notes of citrus, white peach and green apple and a surprisingly powerful finish. £10 from Waitrose Cellar.

Edition Abtei Himmerod Riesling Trocken 2023 also comes from the Mosel, still with light alcohol at 11.5%.

A wine which fully demonstrates modern German winemaking, it is beautifully balanced, with remarkable depth and complexity.

Lively and crisp with lemon zest, apple and stonefruit and a long, refined, mineral finish. On offer from Ocado at a bargain £9 until 25th Morch (down from £11).

International enthusiasm for Riesling appears to be on the rise, with interesting and enjoyable wines now made in many countries where suitable climatic and soil conditions exist.

Both Australia and New Zealand make some fine examples, usually a little more fruit forward in character, yet still dry, such as Villa Maria Private Bin Riesling 2023.

The US has taken to Riesling, which does particularly well in cooler regions.

Dr Konstantin Frank Dry Riesling 2023 comes from the Finger Lakes region in the Eastern US near New York.

An American wine which I feel has particular significance in the current international climate since Dr Konstantin Frank earned his PhD in viticulture from Odessa in Ukraine in 1930, becoming a leading expert in his field throughout Eastern Europe. He emigrated to New York on 1951 and planted the first European grape varieties in the Eastern United Staes in 1958.

Four generations on, the Frank family are considered leaders in the Finger Lakes vineyard area.

Dr. Frank’s vision, knowledge, and determination are credited with elevating the New York wine industry to a level that today commands world attention.

The dry Riesling is absolutely delicious, with refreshing fresh lime flavours and aromas, together with ripe peaches on the rich palate.£19.50 from The Wine Hub.