Rioja in the Twenty-first Century

New generations of winemakers are making wines for new generations of consumers and inevitably techniques may change, resulting in different styles of wine. This process is not so much adaptation, but more a case of evolution, with styles and flavours appealing to today’s wine consumers, whilst respecting age-old traditions and maintaining rioja’s unique character.

With both red and white wines produced, together with a little rosado, much of the wine in the past was subjected to oak, sometimes at high levels, with great use of American oak. I remember many wines, particularly the reds, having huge tannins conferring a powerful and sometimes rustic earthiness. I also can remember several very oxidised white wines, any fruit flavours remaining being masked by overzealous use of American oak.

Such is the transformation, or evolution, of winemaking techniques and consumer expectation, that the wines of Rioja are now almost universally fabulous and appealing, with a broad range of style from up-front fruitiness to complex, elegant, structured wines, some of which are enhanced by judicious use of oak.

With a winemaking history stretching back 2000 years to ancient Rome, wine producers in Rioja have been working together since at least the sixteenth century. The Designation of Origin dates from 1925, the first in Spain and other enhancements for ageing and vintage designation continued through the twentieth century.

The Rioja region, its producers and authorities are dedicated to continuous improvement, impartiality and integrity and the worldwide reputation of the region and its wines continues to go from strength to strength. Many hundreds of rioja wines are available in the UK, but here I have chosen four of the more unusual wines which showcase the quality and variety of what can be found.

Rioja Tempranillo Blanco 2023 from Martinez Lacuesta is a very modern, expressive, fresh and fruity white from a grape variety only identified in 1988. Unoaked, the palate is clean and fresh with citrus, nectarine and hints of orange zest. Additional body results from ageing on the lees. £14.95 from Butlers Wine Cellar, Brighton.

Valenciso Rioja Blanco 2022 is a more traditionally made white, made from a blend of Viura and Garnacha Blanco and barrel fermented in lighter Caucasian oak. A fabulously crafted wine with poise, elegance, body and structure. Great complexity on nose and palate, with stone fruit flavours, candied lemon, underlying minerality and balanced acidity. Great finesse with subtle oak character with a long finish. Around £20 per bottle from online specialists.

Izadi Rioja Larrosa Negra 2021 is a fruity, juicy red made from 100% Garnacha (same as Grenache) grapes, rather than the traditional rioja blend of Garnacha and Tempranillo. Vibrant, succulent, fresh, black and red fruit flavours with a touch of spice. Light, well integrated oak and supple tannins, using a mix of American and French oak. £18.55 from Alexander Hadleigh.

Rioja Palacio de Manzanos 2017 is an exceptional red wine from a two-hectare single vineyard site. Again made exclusively from Garnacha old vines in one of the most important sub-regions of Rioja close to Navarra with modern winemaking expressing the varietal character of the Garnacha variety. Matured in French oak for 10 months, the wine is complex and elegant, with notes of cherry and blackberry, together with balsamic and roasted nuts. Powerful, yet restrained with subtlety and elegance. Around £62 online, e.g. Fade to Black in St Albans.