The global diversity of Chardonnay

“I hate chardonnay, but I adore Chablis”. If I had a pound for every time I have heard that comment, I would be ready for a fully expensed trip to Burgundy! Chardonnay is a grape variety that expresses itself very differently in different climates and is also able to accept treatment with oak, another factor influencing its aromatic and taste profile.

Many people were put off chardonnay back in the 80s and 90s with over oaked wines which tasted more of the wood than the grape! At the lower end of the price scale, some bulk wines were treated with oak chips rather than careful maturation in an oak barrel, heavily influencing the taste and masking the fruit characteristics. Since many wines, particularly from the so-called New World, are predominantly labelled with the grape variety, consumers that had a bad experience with poorly made wine avoid others with the same name.

In Europe, wines are more often labelled with the region or vineyard name, with the grape variety either not mentioned at all, or appearing in small script on the back-label. Hence the Chablis comment – made 100% from chardonnay and a very different flavour from an oaky wine of the past, from Australia or the US.

The art of good winemaking is to achieve balance above all, and with high quality fruit, varietal flavours and complexity can also be achieved. Oak is thus not always used, but when it is, the effect should be subtle and integrated. There are some very good, straightforward un-oaked Chardonnays and then there are top quality Burgundies or Californian Chardonnays which are extraordinarily rich, deep flavoured and complex, fermented and matured in oak, commanding high prices.

For mid-range unoaked Chardonnay, a well-made Chablis is always a good bet. Chablis 2022 Cellier du Valvan from Louis Jadot is the perfect, classic Chablis, with typical citrus and white flower aromas, honey and white peach on the palate and a firm, mineral finish. Elegant, with fresh acidity and subtlety, this is a ‘moreish’ wine from one of Burgundy’s top producers. £25 from independent merchants, and also available at Wholefoods if you are travelling to London.

One of the foremost producers of wine in Burgundy, Louis Jadot also produce an outstanding Macon Villages, 100% Chardonnay. Wines which truly celebrate the diversity of chardonnay. Notes of green apple and citrus, with a creamy texture and excellent balance of fruit and acidity. Refreshing and elegant, made from amongst the best vineyards of the region. Fabulous value at £13 from Tesco.

Moving to the Southern hemisphere and another top wine producer, Errazuriz Aconcagua Costa Chardonnay 2021 is produced in a cool climate coastal region, giving an aromatic, elegant and expressive wine. A medium bodied wine with aromas of tropical fruit, pineapple and honey. Perfectly balanced acidity, a sophisticated wine in the Burgundy mould, but more affordable. £15 to £19 from online merchants.