The Ivy Asia, Brighton's glitz, gold dust and special menus

In numerous visits to the Ship Street venue (day and night) it’s never been less than busy and on a late August Saturday afternoon was buzzing with the great and good.

The Ivy Asia group has recently launched some new menus, one of which is a children’s menu (for 12-year-olds and under), and left me wondering how a young Brightonian/Hovearian would fare in a such rarefied surroundings.

I explored the issue with a friend and her 11-year-old (a Portsladian actually) and it turns out the future of the city’s dining scene take it very much in their stride.

There were a few ‘wows’ at the sight of a massive Samurai model looming over the reception and the restaurant’s justifiably oft-discussed up-lit semi-precious stone floor, but other than that, took to it more than comfortably.

At the same age I’d only really seen the inside of a carvery and the odd Tex-Mex restaurant, and in the same position confronted by such glam surroundings I may well have fainted on the up-lit semi-precious stone floor.

The aforementioned kid’s menu features a choice of mains for £10.95, and soft drinks and puds at various prices.

Junior gormand was slightly disappointed at the absence of the Jangmi Pop bubble tea (it was a busy old Bank Holiday weekend afternoon and the demand for lychee pearls must have been high) but was happy to be allowed a glass of relatively forbidden fruit in the form of a Coke Zero.

The wrinklies at the table went for some altogether boozier libations from a cocktail menu which always seems to offer new treats (or it could just be a combination of excellent mixology and a fading memory).

This time around it was a Mango Sling for me (Cuban rum, coconut midori, pineapple, mango and lemongrass conspiring to make a fabulously fruity and zesty little number), and a dry-ice breathing Emperor Highball (chosen largely because of her love for ginger ale) for her.

We shared bowl of wonderfully fresh and slightly salted steamed edamame, and tried unsuccessfully to copy the matriarch’s fuss-free technique for extracting the beans.

The sprog chose a Japanese barbecue-style robata-grilled Teriyaki glazed breast with spring onion for his main, served on a rather fetching platter with Jasmine rice, and the huge bonus of additional cucumber sushi rolls and an avocado dragon roll.

The sushi, freshly made just a short distance from our table, is always superb at The Ivy A, and the young diner was suitably impressed.

Adults one and two had ordered the The Ivy Asia experience menu (£48 per person for a minimum of two people) which in addition to the edamame, also included some beautifully assembled avocado, cucumber and asparagus maki and sushi rolls.

After some ill-judged showing off with too much wasabi (definitely no watered down substitutes at this establishment), a tray of golden and puffed up prawn tempura arrived on the scene.

An excellent example of the familiar dish, served with a chilli, coriander and lime dip with scattered strands of saffron.

The mushroom gyozas were equally impressive entrées, steamed, seared dumplings, which were bulging with veg and king oyster ‘shrooms and drizzled with a zingy yuzu dressing.

Most younglings would have been content with their decent-sized main but our dining companion has the appetite of an adult and eyed the adults’ pretty plate of chicken karaage, which apparently was one of his favourites (naturally).

The spicy sesame-crusted breast was served with a herb salad, kaffir lime sauce and more than a splash of hot Sriracha to liven up proceedings.

Conversely a creamy Sri Lankan chick pea and green pepper curry proved a far less fiery dish, and combined well with some perfectly wilted choi sum leaves with toasted coconut and a smoky chilli oil.

The mother of the sproglet (who currently doesn’t her progeny’s cast-iron constitution) and (unilaterally) asked for a tweak to the set dessert of sugared doughnuts in favour of something a lot lighter in the gluten department.

Obligingly what followed was a bumper spread of fresh fruit, ice cream and high-cocoa chocolate dipping sauce.

But being the Ivy Asia there was plenty of pizazz to the pud which was dressed with flower petals and more than a sprinkle of edible gold dust.

Fortunately I was able to have a couple of the child’s warm doughnuts and everybody was happy enough.

Finally, a pineapple and cherry negroni (for the road) proved to be a bit of a revelation and left me pondering on the positive impact of cherry wine on one of my favourite tipples.

After nigh on two hours it was time to reluctantly say sayonara to this fun and stylish place, until the next time around...