Wahaca, Brighton - Small plates with big flavours

Wahaca is firmly in the fun but interesting end of casual dining and there’s clear blue agua between the likeable chain and your average high street restaurant.

It was great to see the bulk of the group’s restaurants reopen at the end of last month after the enforced coronavirus closure, including the not-inconsiderable Brighton branch which intersects the corner of North Street and the end of New Road in the North Laines.

On the Saturday afternoon we visited the venue was buzzing and showing no jarring cosmetic changes, barring the loss of the table football and the addition of a rather fetching wash basin by the entrance, for those who’d like to give their paws a rest from the ravages of anti-bac gel.

Closer inspection revealed some relatively inconspicuous transparent plastic dividers between tables, and after a comprehensive (but mercifully short) rundown of the now familiar coronavirus safety measures, it was business as (new) normal.

A couple of super cocktails kicked things off; a classic margarita for the lady, and a creamy but surprisingly zesty Wahaca Colada for the gent, who may or may not have squealed like an over-excited visiting Hen Party party-person when he spotted it on the menu.

Alongside the cocktails guacamole and tortilla chips were nibbled, and the chunky avocado dip had similarly been aided by a good glug of lime.

The Favourites set option seemed like a sensible way to proceed around the good-sized menu, featuring a selection of superbly named ‘Platitos’ – small plates with big flavours.

Seven of these beauties were fairly soon served up, and meant we were playing table Tetris to find space for them all.

And what a spiffing selection it was too. Both types of taco were chugged down in an instant, the slow-cooked pork in the pork pilbil was good and the intense umami of the crispy-fried buttermilk chicken was even better.

The Trealy Farm chorizo quesadillas were a melted marvel and had an even shorter table-life than the tacos, helping with the mild disappointment of the cheese and (less than mild) chilli croquetas, which unlike every other dish and sauce was lacking in depth of flavour and had too much of an obvious chilli kick.

Elsewhere the chilli tastes were fiery but varied and less abrasive. Of the trio of fresh salsa accompaniments the Macha was a marvellous mix of toasted sesame, garlic and chilli.

Honourable mentions are also due to the delish roasted serrano allioi served with crispy cauliflower bites, and the ajillo oil, made with Mexican dried spices and shallots, deployed with devilish aplomb to the perfectly grilled tenderstem broccoli.

The prize for the most surprising Platito came in the shape of Devon crab and avocado tostados. The crab was dressed in a relatively delicate chipotle mayo and the Dev-Mext combination was a winner, and a nice light counterpoint to much more robust flavours on our crowded table.

Pudding came, as it would every day in a perfect world, in the form of deep-fried doughnuts and a chocolate dipping sauce - Crispy Mexican Churros. We also had an extra cup of dulce de leche sauce, because sometimes you deserve as many treats as you can get.

The meal was completed in regal style with some slowly-sipped tequilas and mezcal.

As the menu said: “No salt. No lemons. No watering eyes. Just 100 per cent pure blue agave.”(The Mexican plant which is the base ingredient of tequila.

The Don Julio Añejo (an aged smoky tequila) and the petey Montelobos Mezcal were a pair of heavyweight spirits to be savoured.

So, with minimum fuss and maximum safety to diners and staff alike, Wahaca is back (and now also available through Deliveroo) offering quality ingredients with a fair bit of style.