PETER HOMER Wine and the right cheese '“ ageless, ideal companions

And when a brief email announced that Burgundy’s top winemakers were suggesting a tasting of a few of their products, with French cheeses selected to match each of them, the tastebuds sprang to attention.

The fact the cheeses had been chosen by an expert, Patricia Michelson, at London’s La Fromagerie, was an added attraction, because certain wines don’t go with certain cheeses, or in some cases with no cheeses at all, and trial and error isn’t a good idea.

The combination of wine and cheese is as old as bread and butter, and the pair have been described as ‘ageless companions.’

The four wines mentioned here are all available at www.everywine.co.uk, 
plus the retailers mentioned. The cheeses can be obtained at La Fromagerie, and www.pongcheese.co.uk, plus the listed stores.

A nutty, dry, citrussy white Burgundy is the first cheese friendly choice. Louise Jadot Pouilly-Fuisse 2008 (13.5 per cent, £14.99, Tesco and independents) is a classy, complex wine, with hints of vanilla from the months spent in oak barrels.

Its flavours complemented the rich and creamy Explorateur, from the Isle of France. I have never tasted this before, and its texture is startlingly unusual – rather like soft, melt-in-the-mouth fudge, although obviously a totally unfudgelike taste.

Less soft, and with a rather crumbly character, is Chaource, from Champagne country. While the dry white goes with it very nicely, one particular red wine – pinot noir – would be absolutely okay as well. (Sainsburys).

Fruit flavours like pears, apricots and ripe apples abound in Louis Jadot Bourgogne Chardonnay 2007 (13 per cent, £11.99, Tesco and independents).

Again, half spent a while in oak, and the blend is of grapes from the Cotes d’Or and Maconnais. This is ideal for fish and white meat dishes, and suggested for two cheeses which both have earthy, hazelnut styles.

Comte d’Estive has other tastes including a touch of caramel. I particularly liked Reblochon, from Savoie, which is washed in wine during the maturing process. Semi-soft, with a deep, rich flavour. Lovely stuff. (Sainsburys, Tesco, Waitrose).

From white Burgundy to red, and Louis Jadot Cotes de Beaune Village 2009 (13 per cent, £12.99, Waitrose, Sainsbury’s and independents), a light, fresh, young wine, with lively aromas of redcurrants, cherries and raspberries.

Its proposed partner is a tangy offering known as the connoisseur’s blue cheese – Fourme d’Ambert, from the Auvergne. However, this is mild and mellow, not sharp like some blue cheeses, which means it does not interfere with the subtle tastes of a fine wine.

There are echoes of English cheeses like Cheddar in Cantal Lagioule, also from the Auvergne, but this is only two months old, not matured, like many Cheddars. It has a lighter taste than its English counterparts, which helps to make it wine-friendly. (Waitrose).

I have mentioned Louis Jadot Pinot Noir 2007 (12.5 per cent, £11.99, Tesco and independents) recently, but happily put it forward as a suggested match for the two cheeses – a stylish, aromatic burgundy, with a smooth, fruity character.

As such, it is a good companion for the robust, creamy, nutty delights of Camembert Fermier Durand, recommended for its tastes of the farmyard.

This is a traditional handmade cheese from a small farm in Normandy using milk from its own herd.

Pale gold Beaufort Chalet d’Apage, from Savoie, is a high mountain cheese made from the summer milk, and matured in mountain chalets.

Fresh, light, dreamy (Sainsbury’s, Tesco, Waitrose) – ah, the pleasures of cheese eating!