A sensible glass of red to benefit your health: Richard Esling, March 23

In January I wrote about the beneficial effects of polyphenols – a natural substance found in red wines. More recently, as reported in The Drinks Business earlier this month, researchers in the UK found that drinking a ‘moderate amount’ of red wine with one’s meal may be associated with a reduced risk of developing type 2 diabetes.

The reasons behind the beneficial effect are still under research, but the theory is that either some natural substances found in wine, or the alcohol itself, alter the way in which glucose is metabolised by the body – hence the consumption alongside a meal. Few studies have been undertaken of the effects of wine consumption in relation to timing.

However, it is now almost universally recognised that wine consumption is a double-edged sword, with beneficial or harmful effects produced depending on the quantity consumed. The debate over these effects was highlighted in the European Parliament, when a report had been submitted from a special committee on Beating Cancer, stating there was no safe level of alcohol consumption. After serious debate, a distinction was made between harmful and moderate consumption.

The advice throughout the wine industry is to ‘drink for enjoyment and in moderation’. The debate in the European Parliament centred around proposals for food and drink labelling, praiseworthy in its own right, yet fraught with difficulties, since there are so many factors to be considered when it comes to health, including one which seems to be top of everyone’s agenda – mental health.

My own opinion is that a glass of wine can certainly help calm stress levels, as evidenced in the pandemic, but there need to be self-imposed limits.

Staying with the red wine consumed with a meal theory, I have chosen three reds from around the world at different price levels, all of which pack a punch of flavour and pair well with different dishes. Colpasso Nero d’Avola 2020 from the Italian island of Sicily, is made by the appassimento method with partially dried grapes, producing intense colour and flavour. Brimming with juicy fruit, it is rich and silky, with a mouth-watering, smooth finish. Perfect with a creamy pasta dish, chicken risotto or a spicy sausage pizza; £9, Morrisons.

Koyle Cerro Basalto Garnatxa 2019 is a powerful, biodynamic red from the Alto Colchagua region of Chile. Made from the ripe, juicy full-bodied garnacha grape variety, planted on old, basaltic volcanic soils. The low-yielding soils result in great concentration of flavour in the resulting wine, with complex fruit flavours of dark red fruits, red plums and a touch of orange zest. Soft, velvety tannins with medium to full body. Calls for a rack of lamb, grilled rib-eye or stilton quiche; £14.95, The Wine Society.

Wynn’s Black Label Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 is a benchmark Cab from Coonawarra, Australia. An iconic wine, it was first produced in 1954 and has a reputation for ageing gracefully. Deep, intense, dark red in colour, it has perfectly balanced power, tannic structure and elegant fruit. Dark plummy, fruit with a touch of spice. A stylish wine with stature, which can be drunk now, but has the potential for medium to long-term cellaring. Punchy yet fine and elegant. An unusual yet fabulous pairing is with spicy grilled salmon with coriander salsa; £24.99, Majestic mix six price (in store).