Special bottles for special occasions

Whatever your religion or even if you don’t have one, this time of year lends itself to some form of gastronomic indulgence, if only to cheer up a cold, grey winter’s day. Whilst I don’t agree with the over-commercialisation of the Festive Season which now goes much too far and loses sight of the whole concept of Christmas, a small indulgence from time to time is allowed, either for oneself or as a gift.

Here are a few suggestions of some special bottles. Good white Burgundy is always a treat and very traditional, though the price has increased somewhat in recent years. Pouilly Fuissé 2021 Domaine Ferret from Maison Louis Jadot, one of the greatest Burgundy houses, is an expressive Chardonnay from the south of the region from 40-year-old vines. Traditional vinification in oak barrels for 10 months gives a full-bodied, creamy, complex wine, yet with freshness and vivacity. An elegant wine with notes of nectarine, hazelnuts and gentle spice. £43.50 from Hennings Wine Merchants.

A fabulous red burgundy from the same stable is Louis Jadot Beaune Premier Cru 2017. Beautifully made mellow, elegant Pinot Noir from high quality vineyards in the centre of the region. Typical red cherry, raspberry and vanilla flavours and aromas. Mellow, silky tannins with expressive, underlying power and long, elegant finish. £37.99 from Waitrose. From the rival region on the opposite side of France comes Les Fiefs de Lagrange 2016 St Julien. The second wine of the reputed Chateau Lagrange in one of the foremost regions of Bordeaux, this is a mid-weight, elegant claret with great sophistication, aged 12 months in oak. From an excellent vintage, deep crimson colour, soft tannins and light structure, with good berry fruit character and medium length. £29 from The Wine Society.

From one of the top producers in Mendoza, Argentina, comes Zuccardi Concreto Malbec 2021. A dense, deep-coloured, full, rich wine with a combination of power and elegance. Spicy dark plummy fruit, with full, soft tannins and deep flavours. Fermented and aged in concrete vats to maintain the lively, blackberry and blueberry flavours and purity of fruit. Tremendous top of the range Argentinian Malbec from a first-class winemaker, Sebastian Zuccardi. £29 from Averys of Bristol and several online specialists.

My next two ‘Special bottles’ are fortified wines with deep flavours. Pour a small glass and curl up with it, together with a bowl of mixed fruit and nuts in your favourite armchair. Matusalem VORS from Gonzalez Byass is a rare 30-year-old sweet – but not too sweet – sherry of outstanding complexity and character. Made with Oloroso and Pedro Ximenez sherries and aged in vats for 30 years, the exquisite flavours are harmonious and integrated. Think liquefied Christmas cake – dried fruit, spice, molasses. A real treat to sip and savour. £24.99 per half bottle from Waitrose in a presentation sleeve. Great present for someone special – or yourself!

My final indulgence is Port. Was port made for winter or the other way around? I’m never quite sure. Fonseca Guimaraens Vintage 2008 is rich and spicy, with deep intense colour and dense bramble jelly and black cherry fruit. Made by the great Fonseca Port house in years when a classic vintage port is not declared. With 15 years age, it is drinking wonderfully, with or without a wedge of stilton. £33.50 from the Oxford Wine Company.