Beautiful Ischia – the land of wines

Stunningly beautiful, it is a volcanic island which rose out of the sea and has views across the Mediterranean to Vesuvius on the mainland. Small but perfectly formed, it has a number of vineyards producing excellent quality wine, mainly from indigenous grape varieties. With a wine making culture stretching back thousands of years to the Greek era, in Roman times the island was known as Aenaria – the land of wines.

Ischia is only 10km by 7 km, yet the mineral rich volcanic soils together with an idyllic climate make an ideal environment for growing wine grapes, with no winter frosts and a gentle sea breeze which keeps pests and diseases to a minimum. Last century there were around 1500 hectares of vines, although currently this is eroded to around 400 hectares, development for tourism having taken its toll. Moves are afoot, however, to plant more vineyards and increase production, the only constraining factor being lack of personnel.

The two ‘stand out’ indigenous grape varieties are Biancolella for whites and Per’E Palummo for the reds, both of which are perfectly adapted to the island’s volcanic soils. Due to the high quality of the wines produced, DOC Ischia was recognised as far back as 1966, the second DOC region in Italy. Today there are 6 main wineries on the island, of varying sizes, producing mainly white and red wines, with a smattering of sparkling, rosé and sweet.

Casa d’Ambra is the oldest winery on the island, founded in 1888 and now managed by the fourth generation of the D’Ambra family. Producing an impressive 500,000 bottles annually, mainly from the local Biancolella, Forastera and Per’E Plummo grapes, their wines have won many awards over the years. The top white wine of Casa d’Ambra is called Frassitelli, produced from 100% Biancolella in a 4-hectare single vineyard site at 1500 feet altitude. A very difficult vineyard to work, with steep terraces, rocks and dry-stone walls, the company has installed an ingenious track system on the mountainside to take the wine crates to the winery during harvest time.

Talking to the winemaker Sara d’Ambra, the passion, devotion and tenacity is evident, resulting in wines which are full of character and expression. The balance of fruit and acidity is exquisite, with appealing aromatics and good length on the palate. Using traditions combined with modern technology, the family continues its pursuit of excellence through the generations.

More heroic viticulturists are found at the family winery of Tommasone, overlooking the small port of Lacco Ameno. Making some 110,000 bottles per year, they are the only producer on the island of sparkling wines, making some 3000 bottles by the classical method. The quality of their range of wines is equally high, produced from 17 hectares of wind-swept vineyards.

Finding wines from Ischia in the UK is a challenge, but not impossible, particularly for Casa d’Ambra. The best way to experience them is to travel to Ischia and stay in the fabulous 5 star Botania Relais Hotel and Spa – more of a village set in a tropical garden (with excellent service) than a hotel. Many of the wines of Ischia are served in their three restaurants. Book through the top Tour Operator Tastes of Italy who can make all the arrangements for you.