How Austrian wines are rising in popularity: Richard Esling, April 11

2021 saw the greatest export growth in the history of Austrian wine, rising to over 70million litres. While the growth in volume has been satisfactory, the growth in value has risen exponentially since the year 2000, rising from 35million euros to more than 215million euros per year.

An indication that quality is in demand, with particularly strong growth seen in the export value of Austria’s bottled white Qualitätswein. With growth at 23 per cent, these wines, which represent over half the revenue from Austrian exports, played the leading role in this historic success. Johannes Schmuckenschlager, president of Austria’s Winegrowers Association, said: “Thanks to the outstanding work done by our winegrowers, exports have been on a steadily rising trajectory for a number of years now. Together, we are taking advantage of this growth potential to make Austrian wines more widely known outside Austria.”

While Germany accounts for more than 40 per cent of Austrian wine exports, the UK is number eight in the export hierarchy. Crisp, dry, characterful white wines are very much in vogue in the UK and the Austrian grape variety Grüner Veltliner hits the mark perfectly. One of the top producers which excels at making wine from this variety is Pfaffl, based in the village of Stetten, 28km north of Vienna. Voted European Winery of the Year in 2016, the family business exports to 30 different countries including the UK and has recently gained no less than 19 gold medals in wine competitions.

Cultivating some 275 acres of vines in varied locations, many of which are in the Weinviertel region, a new generation is now in control with Roman Josef Pfaffl in charge of vineyards and winemaking and sister Heidi Fischer responsible for business operations and marketing.

Founded in 1978 by Roman Pfaffl with just two acres of vines, he became known as Mr Veltliner for his work in helping to put Grüner Veltliner firmly on the map. Pfaffl is now widely recognised as the Weinviertel region’s most prestigious estate and a great ambassador for Austrian quality wine in general. A range of finely honed wines is produced, with many available on the UK market.

Pfaffl Gruner Veltliner Vom Haus is deliciously fruity, with white peach and nectarine, together with the typical touch of white pepper. The gold medal Zeisen cuvée, grown on a fossil oyster reef, has greater depth and length, with more spice and black pepper character. Crisp, juicy and refreshing, yet with deep, complex flavours. £14.40 and £17.50 respectively from The Great Wine Company, Bath.

But the ultimate Grüner Veltliner from Pfaffl is their Golden 2020 Weinviertel Reserve. Gloriously.

full-bodied and complex, it is a prime example of what this grape variety is capable of. Soft, yet powerful, with exotic fruit flavours. Available from Daniel Lambert Wines of Bridgend at £16.83.

Richard Esling is a wine consultant, agent, writer and educator. He runs agency and consultancy WineWyse, is founder and principal of Sussex Wine Academy and is chairman of Arundel Wine Society