Richard Esling, On the Grapevine: Beronia: A toast to friendship in every glass

Bodegas Beronia, now a celebrated name in the Spanish wine firmament, began as in many of life’s best stories, with a group of friends, a shared passion, and the desire to create something meaningful.

The story began in the 1970s—a time of cultural change across Europe, yet in the heart of Rioja, tradition still pulsed through the red clay soil.

A circle of Basque friends, avid lovers of gastronomy and the wines that flowed alongside their feasts, gathered regularly in local gastronomic societies—those uniquely Spanish bastions of food, laughter, and long conversation.

However, what they longed for was a wine of their own—a wine to match their values: quality, balance, and above all, conviviality.

Thus in 1973, Bodegas Beronia was born. Named after the ancient Berones, a Celtic tribe that once roamed the Rioja region, the winery pays homage to the land’s deep roots, even as it carves out a distinctly modern identity.

From its inception, Beronia was different—not merely a winery, but a reflection of friendship bottled.

In the glass, Beronia Reserva offers more than a textbook Rioja.

It brings warmth and poise, like an old friend recounting a favourite tale.

The 3 years of oak aging, using a careful blend of American and French barrels, a technique pioneered by Beronia, adds subtlety and spice, balancing innovation with reverence.

Luscious black fruit flavours and silky tannins. On offer in Waitrose at a bargain £13 until late October, down from £17.50.

Likewise, their Crianza, with its vibrant red fruit and velvety tannins, feels like a celebration of everyday joy.

It is approachable, generous, and effortlessly sociable—the kind of wine that disappears before you realise the second bottle has been opened. £13.50 from Sainsbury’s.

Even the Beronia Gran Reserva, aged patiently for a minimum of 5 years, feels less like a monument and more like a sculpture, an ode to shared history, to enduring friendships that mature as beautifully as the wine itself.

Rich and powerful, yet mellow and elegant. £25 from Majestic or £24.75 from Ocado.

The range is far from confined to their stunning reds. Beronia Rosé 2024 is a bright salmon pink, with succulent strawberry and redcurrant fruit.

Fresh, crisp and balanced for the last Summer days. £11.25 from Ocado or Amazon.

Waitrose has another great offer, this time on Beronia Rueda 2024 from the Verdejo variety in the next-door region. Exceptional value at £8 down from £12 to the end of September. Crisp, fresh zesty and fruity.

A very different style of white is the Beronia Viura Barrel Fermented Rioja 2024. Full flavoured and long on the finish with aromas of white flowers and vanilla, with apricot and citrus on the palate. £12 from Ocado. Perfect to share over a meal with friends.

While friendship was the catalyst, Beronia's success is no accident. Over the decades, the winery has earned a reputation for meticulous winemaking and environmental stewardship.

The new Beronia winery, opened in 2020, is a model of sustainable architecture—harmoniously integrated into the landscape, and Spain’s first winery to achieve LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) certification for sustainability.

Yet, for all its modernity, Beronia never strays far from its founding spirit.

Its wines continue to be crafted not for critics or trends, but for people—people who gather, laugh, debate, and celebrate.

Each bottle is a quiet reminder that wine, at its heart, is a social beverage.

Beronia was, and remains, a wine made for friends, by friends.