Richard Esling, On the Grapevine: Fabulous festive fizz for friends and family

In my household it will be the latter, since my young pup goes into a steep decline at the sound of loud noises. With friends and family calling in at this time of year the ‘pops’ may be a fairly regular occurrence.

For me, sparkling wine has to be made by the traditional method, the same as champagne itself, giving the wine depth, flavour and complexity. I have been a great fan of champagne for ever and now am an equal fan of English sparkling wines.

So here are my recommendations for three of each which will delight both you and your guests.

Taittinger Brut Reserve Champagne is one of my all-time favourites. Characterised by poise, elegance and finesse, it has perfect balance and ranks very high on my ‘enjoyability’ scale.

Made from the usual blend of champagne grape varieties, it is Chardonnay dominant, giving that extra dimension of creamy body. Made by one of the last remaining family run independent champagne houses, their mission is the pursuit of excellence. Goal achieved. Widely available in many supermarkets and independents, look out for seasonal offers. £44 per bottle with some offers 25% off.

Champagne Bruno Paillard is a little less known but achieves an almost unsurpassable level of quality in its range of special champagnes.

Another family run company which is dedicated to excellence, the Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru is a special occasion champagne with opulence and sophistication in large measure. The Extra Brut style has been aged for four years on the lees and subsequently aged after disgorgement. 100% chardonnay from top level vineyards in the Cote des Blancs. £75 from specialist merchants such as Hedonism in Mayfair.

The third of my ‘ultimate’ champagnes is Champagne Drappier Carte d’Or Brut from the southern champagne region of the Cote des Bar in the Aube department. A family-run business founded in 1808, the blend is dominated by 80 % Pinot Noir and a low dosage produces a dry, fruity, elegant champagne of great quality. With aromatic richness and complexity. £46.49 from Tesco Marketplace online.

Simpsons in Kent rank as one of my favourite English sparkling wine producers. The Flint Fields Blanc de Noirs 2020 is made from 100% Pinot Noir grapes grown on classic chalk soils on the North Downs.

Perfect balance and exquisite finesse, with underlying depth and complexity, aromas of toasted brioche and long, satisfying finish. Crisp, dry with raspberry and wild strawberry fruit notes. £39 from The Wine Society.

Candover Brook Brut from Hampshire is a new kid on the block. Vineyards were planted on Lord Sainsbury’s estate and this is the maiden release after 42 months ageing on the lees.

Unmistakably English, there are aromas of honeysuckle and hawthorn, with citrus notes, brioche on the nose, vibrant but balanced acidity and a deliciously refreshing finish. Awarded a gold medal by Decanter. Around £39 per bottle from independent merchants.

The third of my English sparklers is from Denbies Estate in Surrey. Greenfields Brut has notes of elderflower, golden delicious apples, conference pears and a citrus touch. Buttered brioche on the nose, with a long, dry finish and fine mousse. Zesty and structured with considerable complexity. Multi-award-winning English sparkler. Well priced at around £28 online.