Richard Esling On the Grapevine: Sherry: a world of flavours beyond the familiar

As the UK celebrates Sherry Week, there is no better time to rediscover one of the world’s most versatile and intriguing wines. For too long, sherry has been regarded as a drink reserved for Christmas, or perhaps a small glass before Sunday lunch. Yet, from the delicate, saline freshness of a Manzanilla to the extraordinary richness of a 30-year-old blend of Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximenez, sherry offers a remarkable diversity of styles, many of which remain sadly underappreciated.

For the connoisseur, the real pleasure lies in exploring beyond the familiar Fino and Amontillado, seeking out the rarer and more complex expressions that demonstrate just how magnificent these wines can be.

Among the most distinguished is González Byass Apostoles, a 30-year-old blend of Palo Cortado and Pedro Ximenez, combining the elegance and aromatic complexity of the former with the richness and depth of the sweet latter. Aged through the traditional solera system, it develops layers of toasted nuts, dried fruit, spice and a wonderfully persistent finish. Its companion, Gonzalez Byass Matusalem, is a 30-year-old Cream Sherry, made from Oloroso sweetened with Pedro Ximénez. The result is a sumptuous wine with notes of raisins, figs, caramel and dark chocolate. Both are categorised as VORS (Very Old Rare Sherry) and are magnificent examples of how sherry can develop extraordinary complexity over decades. Sold in half bottle size £32.45 from Waitrose and available online from other outlets.

For those wishing to explore something rather different, Lustau’s Almacenista Oloroso ‘Pata de Gallina’ is well worth seeking out. The Almacenista style celebrates the small independent sherry producers whose wines have traditionally supplied the larger bodegas. These are often highly individual unblended bottlings, revealing the character of a particular producer and ageing bodega. This Oloroso offers a rich, off-dry style, with layers of walnut, spice and dried fruit, making it a wonderful partner for mature cheeses, game or simply a contemplative glass after dinner. £25 per 50cl bottle from Laithwaites, who have a wide range of excellent sherries.

Another style worth rediscovering is Cream Sherry, particularly Hidalgo Alameda Cream. From a family company founded in 1792, this is a beautifully balanced, sweet sherry blended from Olorosos and Pedro Ximenez, with a richness of flavour that makes it ideal alongside desserts, blue cheese or simply enjoyed on its own. It is a reminder that sweetness, when properly balanced by acidity and complexity, can be every bit as sophisticated as a dry wine. £20 per 50cl bottle again From Laithwaites.

Sherry’s influence extends far beyond the wine glass. Its casks have become highly prized by distillers, lending their distinctive flavours to whiskies and other spirits. Bowmore 12-Year-Old Malt whisky, from Islay’s oldest distillery, is a particularly appealing example, combining the distillery’s characteristic smoky, peaty, maritime notes with the influence of sherry-seasoned oak. The result is a whisky with a lovely balance of peat smoke, citrus, hints of sweet, dried fruit and unmistakeable aromas of sherry. Also from Laithwaites, currently on offer at £48.

Sherry Week is an invitation to look beyond the familiar and appreciate the extraordinary range of wines produced in Andalusia in southern Spain. Whether exploring a rare, aged Palo Cortado, a richly textured Oloroso blend or a beautifully balanced Cream, there is a style to suit every palate. And for those who already know and love sherry, the rarer bottlings offer a lifetime of discovery.